I had just started trying to look into this.. Reading about different methods, then cross referencing to find out what the drawbacks and benefits are, discarding one idea and looking for another… my head was spinning! If you have any questions, please ask. Any comments about the stainable properties after the soap is made.? Also, FYI, spirulina and Turmeric fades greatly in soap unless infused in oil first.
Thanks for sharing this! Thanks for sharing … These colors looks beautiful… these days unnatural ingredients in many commercial skincare products, have become so common… This idea of adding color in soap looks healthy as well. Glad you have shared this. Hi there!! I am new to all of this and just starting out. Take some of the oil that you would use in your batch of soap like some of the olive oil and put the alkanet in it. Then add it with your oils. Some colors do better once there are in oils, while others need to be added at trace…. Thanks for Sharing…. I have been searching the internet for colors… and so many sites make it confusing!
They show that tbey afe pigment colors then when you start reading the infor on the color they are really mica colors. I have finally found some of the pigment colors that I have purchased and look forward to using them. Thanks again. Is there not enough for this or do people not care about the smell? I wondered the same thing when I first started making soap. I actually wish it retained some of the scent, but alas it mostly gets killed off on the specification process.
So do not fear, have fun with the colors, and use essential oils for scents. Using Indigo, I processed some fiber materials. I have previously used a liquid form but found the power to much more affordable. The Indigo does have an odd smell, one that is not pleasing, and I just added it to water, let it sit for a day.
Do you have a suggestion on how to prep this produce for coloring soap? Looking at your palm oil soap photo, made with the charcoal and Spirulina, I wanted to say how nice that looked.
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I was wondering if you blogged just how you did that? Thanks so much, we just love your site and your work…. Thank you so much. For the indigo, I add it like I do my charcoal, by scooping out a few large spoonfuls of soap into a small bowl when it is reaching light trace and mixing it with a whisk.
I have also heard people say that they get a prettier blue by letting it steep in their liquid, warm oils. This makes a lot of sense. If it is already reconstituted in water, use this as some of your lye water. As you can see, there are a number of acceptable methods. For the charcoal and spirulina that I use in my patchouli soap, I scoop out soap at light trace into two bowls just about a cup each for a lb batch. Whisk in some charcoal in one, spirulina in the other. After I pour the soap into my mold I swirl in the charcoal and spirulina soap, swirling just a little with a spatula.
I hope I helped a little. Thanks for posting this. But I was thinking, hat about oxides? Are those not considered natural? Are they bad for the skin? Thank you for your help. Yes, most oxides can be toxic to the body if they are nano sized which many companies do for blending into cosmetics smoothly. So definitely look into the product before buying. They are found naturally in the ground. The form we use in sunscreens and as pigments in makeup and soaps are not.
They are completely man produced so that there is no contamination from arsenic, lead, etc. That may sound good, but the chemicals they use to process pigments and oxides are extremely unhealthy. Even then, some people will not use because of its processing.
I am new to the soap making world and hope to use natural herbs I can grow to add color and depth to my soaps. I tried to grind lavender and basil into a powder using a nice coffee grinder- but found it only gave me very fine pieces of herbs- not smooth or powdery really. Love your website! Basil can grind to a powder easier than lavender. Lavender flowers are beautiful kept whole though. Try a mortar and pestle.
I use homemade herbs in infused oils used in the soaps, sprinkled on top while still soft, or mixed in. The small pieces are fine that way. Try steeping them in the oil on low heat for a while to infuse the oil. Very helpful info, Kelly, thanks! I love making soaps and have been using only natural herbs and infusions for colouring and essential oils. Have you ever used oregano in soap. I live in the south of Italy and it grows wild on our ground and is never treated with any chemical. I have not used dried oregano. I completely agree! Adding fragrances and dyes ruins the benefits of making your own soap.
It drives me crazy to see on YouTube and other sites people using artificial means glitter is SO eco UNfriendly and then bragging up the wonders of homemade. Want to pre mix Titanium Oxide for soap making: Is there a special fluid or about to make this ahead of time? Lots of sites talk about making it up ahead of time no one says how much and what fluid. Just wondering if I could use these colorants for bath bombs. I think if I add it to the melted coconut oil I use that might just work. Your thoughts on this. You defintiely can.
When making soap the colors are effected by the lye and heat, so these will actually be more true colors in bath bombs.? One way to make powder from your lavender or flowers is to dehydrate them in a dehydrator or oven. Then they can be put into a Ninja food processor use the container to blend a shake drink in to pulse them quickly into a powder. You can also pulse candy canes, dried orange peel, and much more with your Ninja processor. Thanks a million for your informative website and loads of info. My name is Mona. I am newbie to soap making.
I only started in Jan. I have made two batches of liquid Castile soap. Every time I get a dark brown paste and when I dilute it, I still get dark brown liquid Castile soap. Is it because a stainless steel pot instead of a crock pot? Is it because the heat I use is not low enough? I used olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil and palm oil. It is because of the oils I use?
Is it because I take away the lid every 30 minutes to stir the paste so the water in the paste evaporates? One more question how can I make the hand soap more sudsy? Hi, sorry it took me a few days to get back to you. It sounds like you are hot prcoessing. The darker color is not from the stainless steel pot, and removing the lid when hot processing usually just leads to dry chunks stirred into the soap, not a darker color.
Are you using a white palm oil or red? It could be because you are overheating your oils. Are you using potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide in order to create a liquid soap, or just adding more water after saponification? To make a hand soap more sudsy you can you can add more castor oil. Make sure you put all of your ingredients through a lye calculator like on soapcalc. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your information, and appreciate very much you sharing your knowledge.
I have been making soap for a while and my desire is to start my own business. There is soo much information to learn, especially about the business aspect of getting everything set up, and would like to know your suggestions of how to best get started soaping software, best place to buy essential oils, etc. Starting local is a great way to start getting your logo ready and finding out what people like. Try selling to friends, boutiques, and in local craft shows. This list is very helpful, thank you! My son reacts to everything with rashes and bumps so we have started making our own soaps together.
We also wanted to try making soaps to give to family and friends this year for Christmas gifts and were looking for ways to color them naturally. We saw alfalfa powder for sale as a colorant, and it grows everywhere on our farm so we dehydrated some ourselves to try it. Unfortunately, even though our soap started out nice and green, it has faded to a pale brown color while curing. So we are nervous about ordering expensive herbs and powders online and having them not work out. A lot of greens will do that. Oil infusions like with parsely or spirulina tend to hold green longer as well, rather than just added at trace.
Thank you for your article and information. My struggle is getting bolder colors. Do you use both the infused water with lye and the infused oil at trace? And how much do you usually use? I would really appreciate your feedback. My coloring is the missing piece right now to my soap journey, lol. Thank you.
Hi Lisa, These suggestions are ingredients I add directly at trace without infusing in oils. These are quick simple ideas. For bolder colors I like to use clays and oil infusions. Annatto will give bright yellows, paprika infusion will give deep oranges, rose clay can give bright reds added directly at trace. Greens are tricky.
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Most will fade. These look lovely! Any problem with staining? I know for instance that turmeric tends to stain fabric bath towels. Has anyone noticed this? None of these stain when used in soaps, but bath salts may cause staining on white bath towels. They are just not incorporated and diluted as you would if making soap. It is so fun to experiment with natural ingredients with soap making. I love the anticipation of how the color will turn out. So far I have used turmeric and paprika. I have also used nutmeg for a layer line in my soap making.
Great talk with other soap maker lovers. Use rue ruda , rosemary, peppermint, lavender.. The rue is great! Thanks for the article. Why do certain soaps discolor when left under the sun especially soap that is colored pink. Green is usually the color the people have the biggest problem with. Yes, herbal colors can fade over time, but most stay pretty strong. You can make an herbal oil infusion of color and sub that for some of the oil in your recipe.
Sometimes oil infused colors last longer. Try clays.
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I have a question about liquid Castile soap, please. I watched a video online on how to make liquid Castile soap thicken by adding salt solution. It separates into a clear liquid and foam on top. Why does this happen? Another question, do I have to leave the Castile soap for 2 — 3 weeks to cure before I use it?
I picked these colors simply because I love pink! These colors not only bring me the feelings of love, but being loved. NOT recommended for use in Nail Polish because it is not solvent-stable. Black Mica is the perfect blend of flat black oxide with a low-sheen mica. The result is a soft shimmery black popular for many uses but especially Black Oxide is an iron oxide which is flat, black and pure in hue. Stands alone as an accent color for any cosmetic or personal care product; also The "blackstar" family of colors offers mystery, sensuality and elegance to any color line.
Especially effective as stand alone colors in eye shado The "blackstar" family of colo The "blackstar" family of col Pinpoints of Blue. Not recommended for use in nail polish. Bright red carmine, sourced as a more affordable option than our original Carmine. TKB offers three different brands of Carmine. On this page you Soft medium-hued brown with a A golden bronze brown.
Useful in all kinds of cosmetics and personal care products, particularly for products intended to bring a bronzing glow to Flat pure brown pigment, of a medium shade. This is actually a blend of red, yellow and black oxides, bringing it to a fairly medium shade brown pi Shimmery red but looks more like a rusted red when layered. Show 24 36 48 View as. View full details. Sold out. Choose options. Our Pearl Collection are micas in pastel colors with medium sheen. Color shifting interference product which shifts from gold to green. Incredibly romantic, imagine a love that has been reborn from your past lifetime!
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Medium sheen blue which rubs out with reddish violet undertones. A subdued, blackened purple with surprising after-sheens of a bright, fuchsia pink. Fiery golden passion with a hint of red.